Lost Souls Skull Tank
This Photo Tutorial uses the “Lost Souls” Skull Shawl Designed by Maryetta Roy
It is a FREE pattern on Ravelry you can download here:
I am not a pattern writer, and this has not been tested by anyone but me, however I am available to answer any questions or for help with this pattern by Facebook messenger, Instagram or my Contact page.
I used 2 skeins Patons Hempster Yarn it's 55% Hemp, 45% Cotton in weight 3 and a 4MM G hook
I love this yarn!!! However you can use any lightweight DK Cotton.
I love this pattern and it is so fun to make!!
I highly recommend watching the YouTube videos linked in the Ravelry pattern before beginning.
Stitches used for Skull: SS, CH, SC, DC, HDC SH ST (Shell Stitch) do not INC
Stitches used for tank top: SS, CH, SC, SH ST
IMPORTANT NOTE: When following the Lost Skulls pattern only work rows 1 -12 Omitting the increases so you only make 1 skull!
Tie off yarn and turn the skull to the FS (The DC of chin frontside)
TURN before starting each row
.Row 5 Will have 9 CH 5 on each side & 4 CH 5 on each side of the SH ST at bottom. Work next rows Repeating Row 4 & Row 5.
For size small Work 10 Rows, Size Medium 11 Rows and size Large 12 Rows XL 14 rows.
This is super stretchy so don't be fooled by it looking too small, it needs to be fitted and worn over a cami. Check to make sure your corner loops are right and the chains on each side of the shell stitch are every other row ch 3, SH ST and CH 5 skip CH3 SH ST! Other than that it's all repetitive and easy!
Make another one for the back and meet back here for Part 2
No Sew Stitching the front to back and shoulders
Front and back sides Part 1 completed.
Looks too short right? Right!
Don't worry adding length comes in Part 3, unless you want to make it a crop top.
Place both sides with the right sides facing out For the No Sew stitch to begin
Armhole placement start in the corresponding size. Size Large will start with 9th CH 5 SP from the top not counting the Corner Loop
Repeat for other side right side facing out!
Part 2 "NO SEW SEAMS" Complete!
Part 3 Adding rows to the bottom for length
It is worked much the same as the rest but now we will be adding a SH ST to the sides and working in the round will not increase the width, only the length.
Work until your desired length.
To begin I used only 1 skein of the Hempster yarn to complete the front, back and no sew seams. I am still waiting for the rest of my yarn to be delivered so I am doing this part of the tutorial in a contrasting color for now. It will help to show the work better, however it looks garish so I will be ripping it out when my yarn arrives. But for now it helps explain the process well.
The first side shells in the first row do not look good but once you complete the second, third and more rows it looks like it is supposed to look. You will have a nice V shaped hem at the sides and middles of the top.
I will post more pictures when my yarn arrives and I can finish this!! It only took me 2 days to complete, But now that I have the tutorial finished it should work up faster and it is not a yarn hog at all probably less than 300 yards.
Finnish Granny Summer Tank
This pattern was edited on May 20 2019 the original pattern after wearing stretched so much that I had to change the pattern. The pattern as previously written would be a large to XL size.
2 skeins Lion Brand Re-UP yarn 114 yds. ea. (may need to use part of a third skein for L/XL.
Hook size 4M for Small or 4.5M for Medium - Large/XL
This pattern is really stretchy you make think it looks too small buy it stretches a lot!
Needle for sewing in ends.
2 stitch markers or safety pins
CH – chain stitch
ST - stitch
SC – single crochet
SS – Slipstitch
DC – double crochet (American)
Cluster – DC 4 together (flower petals)
Notes: Front and back pieces start out as separate pieces use 1 skein for each side do not
cut the yarn on last stitch before joining, place a stitch marker in the loop so the work
does not come undone while you work.
About my yarn choice I am not getting paid by Lion Brand I wish I were!
I just really like that it is recycled material and easy on the wallet.
It is a bit quirky to work with as it is kind of stringy and likes to separate.
I originally bought it for making market bags but then I liked it so much I decided a tank top
would be great fun to have and make. Michaels carries this yarn for $2 each, less if you have a coupon!
And the Lion Brand website also offers a denim color that is not found in stores it’s $1.99.
My next project with this pattern I am going to try a Caron Cotton Cake.
Feel free to use any cotton you like the 24/7 would probably work up nicely too.
Round 2 – CH 2 tight (does not count as DC) 2 DC in each DC, SS to top of first DC. 36 DC
Round 3 – Petals CH 3 (counts as part of first Cluster) 2 partial DC in next stich,
1 partial DC in next stitch (4 loops left on hook) then pull through all loops. CH 4
Remaining Clusters: Partial DC in next stitch (leave 2 loops on hook) 2 partial DC in next ST (4 loops left on hook)
partial DC in next ST (5 loops left on hook) Pull through all 5 loops CH 4 continue to end SS to top of first petal.
12 Petals & 12 CH Spaces
Yikes!! I finished the row with only 11 petals! Time to start over!! I hope this doesn't happen to you! It was an easy fix.
Tada! 12 Petals!!
This round begins to make the square:
Round 4 – CH 5, SS back in to the base to form a circle, this will be the first of 4 corners.
CH 5 and SS to top of next Cluster, CH 5, SS to top of next Cluster, CH5, SS to top of next Cluster this is the second of 4 corners
CH 5 SS back to top of Cluster repeat to end beginning next row in first corner worked.
Round 5 - 11 Into first corner worked SC into CH 5 space CH 5 and SC back onto corner CH 5, CH SC into next CH 5 space continue work all sides and corners. (For Large- XL add 1-2 more rows)
Round 12 Starting in first corner which will be the bottom edge of top work 5 CHs SC in first 8
CH 5s, CH 4 SC in next 2 CH 5s, CH 4 Work corner SC, CH 4, SC. Top edge of square Work all as:
CH 3, SC in CH 5 to corner, work corner, CH 4 SC, CH 4, SC, CH 4, SC work all the rest of round as in Rw 5. For S/M stop here.
(Round 13 Same as round 12 For L/XL only.)
Finish with a SC into the corner CH 5 spaces to not cut your yarn place a stitch marker in the loop to hold your work.
Just an example all my rows are not yet complete
With the second Skein of yarn make the back same as the front.
Will be joining the sides with and making the armhole and spaghetti strap.
Next will be adding more CH 5, SC rows to the bottom working in the round until desired length.
Instructions and pictures will be posted next week!
Have fun! Feel free to contact me with any questions!
Finnish Summer Tank Part 2
Stitching up the sides and making the armholes:
With both squares side by side right side up match the 2 bottom corners on the square with the yarn attached SC in corner CH SP, CH 4, SC in corner CH SP of next square,
CH 4, SC to next CH SP of the first square
Continue back and forth up the CH 5 SP with a CH 4 SC in each side, leave 4 CH SP, and corner unworked for the armhole.
Don not cut the yarn, place a stitch marker in the loop to hold your work.
Now work the other side the same way making sure the right sides are facing out.
Armhole and spaghetti strap:
CH 1 SC into next CH BLO (back loop only). From here out the arm holes and neckline will be worked this way. SC into each CH and SC BLO up to corner.SC into CH SP of the corner, CH 34.
Attach to the next corner CH SP with a SC. Be sure the chains are not twisted!!!
SC in next SC and each CH BLO until you reach the start.
You can SS to first SC and tie off.
I like a cleaner finish and do it this way:
On your last SC cut a 5" tail and pull through, using a needle sew a loop into the first SC and back to the last SC then sew in your end.
First armhole and spaghetti strap. Go back to the side and repeat.
Neck line and finishing the strap:
I top corner in the first SC attach your yarn CH 1 and SC in same SC BLO, continue to SC across same as armhole through all CH and SC BLO
Finished armhole, neckline and spaghetti straps.
Next to add length to the bottom of the top:
Attach yarn like the photo below.
I put place markers in the SC in the 2 corners the CH 4 space in the middle is the under arm seam.
Attach your yarn in the CH 4 SP, CH 6 counts as SC and CH 5.
SC to next CH SP, Place a stitch marker in the CH 6 SP to mark the beginning of each row. CH 5, SC into CH 5 SP repeat across for as may rows as you want to the length you like. I crocheted 10 rows. I am long waisted and don't like crop tops!
Noro Tokonatsu Yarn from Japan
This top works up fast and easy! As shown is 4 balls of yarn to make it a tunic style you will need at least 6 or 7 balls or 9 balls for a swimsuit cover-up.
Pretty pink open stitches
Pink Weave Crochet Top
Noro Tokonatsu Yarn
5mm hook (if you crochet tight use a 6-7 mm hook)
Top is worked in 3 sections. First make 2 pieces front and back worked bottom to top shoulders mattress stitched together.
Then working in the round front and back joined and stitched top to bottom.
Reverse V Stitch
Modified 4 post 1 ch shell stitch
First two pieces worked the same until row 12
Chain 75 + 4
Row 1: In fifth ch from hook make a V Stitch sk 2 ch V stitch across until 2 ch sk 1 DC in last, ch 4 turn.
Row 2: in ch 1 sp work a DC 2 Tog, ch 2, repeat across, DC in last st ch 3 turn.
Row 3: In DC 2 Tog top sp V stitch across DC in last st, ch 4, turn.
Row 4 – 14 Repeat row 2-3
Row 15*: V st 8x DC in 9th dc 2 tog sp. Chain 3 turn
Row 16: DC 2 Tog in ch 1 space 8x dc last st ch 2 turn
Row 16-20: repeat rows 15 & 16.
Repeat for other side of shoulde
Work all rows across except last 2 rows st in first 8 and again 8 for other shoulder.
Mattress stitch both shoulders
Third piece: Attach yarn to both front and back pieces at armholes and crochet in the round
Row 1 in the round: Sc in same stitch in ch st where the first V stitch is 2 DC ch 1 2 DC in same ch, sc in next V stitch ch. 2DC ch 1 2DC in next repeat all the way around sl st to first sc.
Row 2: ch 4 V ST in ch 1 sp, ch 1, DC in sc st, repeat around sl st to ch3 of turning ch.
Repeat all rows until desired length.
Last row will be: SS in top of joining DC, in top of V 2DC, ch 1, TC, ch 1, 2 DC, ss to top of next DC repeat around!
Note: I sewed up 4 rows of the armhole to make it smaller you may leave it or even sew 5-6 rows up if you desire.
You will notice this top is a little short you can make it any length or even a dress length for a swimsuit cover-up. I plan to finish off the last rows with a contrasting Noro yarn and add a sc row of contrast to armholes and neck.
I used Paton's Grace cotton yarn, driftwood from my trip to Mendocino and some scraps of organic cotton for the leaves and hemp yarn to hang, fishing wire or more of the same yarn would work nicely too.
I would have used the grace but Charley girl got to it
before I could finish and I had to throw it away.
That dog loves my yarn more than I do!! Naughty girl!
She has done this more times then I like to remember....
As you can see!
The middle flower is the Never ending Wildflower pattern I found here at
Little Monkeys Crochet
I added a row of chains and single crochet then one large row of scallops and one row of small. Attached it to the driftwood along with the cotton leaves and a little hemp cord for hanging.
I think it would be a nice gift!
How to crochet Leaves
I love this bag! First it works up fast, only uses 2 cakes of yarn and it is sturdy enough you don't need a lining; however if you have small lipsticks and pens etc I would recommend putting them in a zippered pouch. And if you use it for your yarn stash you have an instant travel pillow too!
2 Caron Tea Cakes or Sprinkles – 6 weight
M 9mm Hook
Starting from the bottom up worked in the round.
With 2 strands CH 22
Row 1: 4 DC in 3rd chain from hook, (= 5DC), 1 DC
in each CH until the last chain. In the last CH 5 DC,
then working in opposite side of CHs DC across and
SS into 3rd CH from beginning.
Row 2: CH 2, 1DC in first ST, 2 DC in next 4 ST, 1 DC
across until the 5 DCs, 2 DC in next 5 ST, 1 DC in
remaining ST, SS to top of CH 2.
Row 3: CH 2, 1 DC in each ST all around.
Row 4: CH 1 in back loops only SC in each stitch
around. SS to CH 1.
Row 5 – 13: CH 2 and DC in each ST around.
Lay back flat and measure from the middle 10 stiches
and mark this will be for the handles.
Row 14: with 10 middle stitches on each side marked
with safety pins or stitch markers.
Begin DC in each ST up to stitch marker, CH 24 and
DC in next ST after the marker, DC in each ST up to
next marker, CH 24, DC in next stitch after marker,
DC across and SS into top of CH 2.
Row 15: CH 1 SC across to CH 24, SC approx. 26 –
28 around chains. I like it to be tight and firm so make
sure it is stitched tight with no gaps, I don’t really
count how many SC I just make sure it is tight. SC in
each ST up to next CH 24 and repeat. SC in
remaining ST, SS to CH 1 and finish off
For the closure if you want to use it:
Into the 10 stitches in the back of bag: Count over 3
slipstitch into 4th ST CH 1 and HDC in same ST, HDC
in next 3 ST (4 total) CH 1 Turn and HDC into each
ST to desired length for closing I did 5 Rows.
CH 6 and SS to last ST and fasten off this is the loop
for the tassels.
For the tassels: CH 24 leaving a tail on each end for
threading on the tassels.
Thread the chains to the front of bag in Row 12 into
Make two tassels and attach to each end of chains.